Saturday, September 30, 2006
Kabul Blues
To be honest, Kabul is an awful place to live. There is very high pollution and almost no infrastructure. Everyone is responsible for their own water well or electricity because there is only some hours city power per day. Huge piles of garbage are on the every corner and sewage water runs in deep concrete ditches beside the streets. There is no city transport, only minibuses dash around like bees. Only wide avenues give hints that there had been some good ideas when this city was planned.
Old residents of Kabul have told me that before the last war it was a beautiful city: huge trees lined the streets, there were many beautiful worship places (even for jews and sikhks), trolleybuses rattled around. Russians who were afraid of snipers cut all big trees, worship places were destroyed and Taliban took down all the wires necessary for trolleys. Only huge "graveyards" of trolleys or roots of cut trees remind those times.
But the worst thing is that there is an atmosphere of fear. You can feel it. You can see it. You can smell it. It just surrounds you wherever you go.
I met one young lovely afghan lady from Canada at the airport. She just visited her relatives in Kabul. She was born in Afghanistan, she knew very well both dari and pushtu languages. But she was afraid. She never went out alone and felt all the time oppressed. "It was not the same country I remember," she told me sadly.
Wednesday, September 27, 2006
Prologue
I have been describing our everyday life in Kabuli päevik (Kabul Diary in Estonian) http://qnne.blogspot.com/for five months now. I was amazed how many people are interested about our experiences: to read stories and to look at my images.
It has been an interesting wandering. We started like lonely westerners in hostile land. Now we have find some good friends not only among international community but among some afghan people as well. We started our living in a tiny room of the guesthouse, continuing in a small house at the compound of internationals. We ended living with afghan family in their garden house.
For me, personally, most important has been the disappearance of the feeling of fear. After our first security training I thought that I will go mad. How can we live next years behind wires and walls as prisoners? It seemed impossible to go out even just for a walk. But walking for me is something self-evident, part of normal everyday life in Estonia. When I go now to shopping down the street, trying to use my elementary dari language as much as I can it is somehow ridiculous to remember very first days.
Afghan people are the most patient I have ever seen in my life. I envy their dignity. And something - despite a quarter of hundred years of war - is left about their hospidality. The way how poor farmer from outskirts of Kabul is offering tea, is something to learn about.
And, especially, I am impressed with Afghanistan landscapes: the majestic look of medieval minarets and mosques in Herat, the peaceful agricultural views of Kunduz river irritation area, the ruthless snowy mountains near Salang pass or breathtaking beauty of the colorful hills in Bamian Valley.