Sunday, December 17, 2006

Trip to North III: Wonderful Hazrat Ali

Weather changes dramatically at Mazar. If there was nice summer climate (in Estonian standards) at Kunduz, then there is heavy wind. Next morning is really very cold and rainy. But it can't disturb me to arrange three pilgrimage to Hazrat Ali Shrine during next three days.
My afghan friend Waheed, whos family lives here, has been told me repeatedly about beauty of this shrine. After seeing Friday Mosque in Herart I was quite sure that mosque in Mazar can't surprise me. Of course, I was wrong again.
I have agreed with my husband's colleague Steven to walk through town at very early morning. We walk belong muddy tiny streets through awaken town and hit the mosque at the sunrise.
It is Friday and there are crowds around the garden. First we just wander around the mosque when first shy daylight is pouring the astonishing deep turquoise colour buildings. Actually, it is huge complex: various size of buildings, minarets, fountains, benches, roses and trees.
We go back in the evening with our local drivers. It is extremely cold and rainy. First we visit spot of thousands of white doves. There is legend that ordinary grey doves turn white doves during fourty days. Doves of Hazrat Ali are well groomed and loved. It is something extraordinary: to see how the afghans respect the doves.
We take off our shoes in one of the gateway house and leave them to guard's responsibility. First step on marbled square, covered with icy-cold water, is great. Although my feet reminds me current situation, the surrounding is stunning.
Hazrat Ali have been built by sultan Seljuk. Of course, it was destroyed by Thingish-Khaan. Hussain Aiqara, sultan of Timurid dynasty, rebuilt it again at 15th century.
There is local legend, that the Hazrat Ali, son-in-law of Muhammad, is buried here. (Actually he is buried at Kufa, Iran.) His body has been carried by white female camel, who fall down because of exhaustion. The place where she dropped, was body of Hazrat Ali buried.
Hazrat Ali is always full of people: pretty dressed children, woman in different coloured burkas, couples, saints, beggars, handicapped, soldiers. All people seemed to feel comfort and enjoy lovely atmosphere of this fabulous place.

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