Back to Bamiyan I: the discreet charm of Hazaras

Last year we spent our spring holidays in Bamiyan. We had some friends over there, midwives from US Siri and Marion. They were working in Aga Khan hospital. My husband and I, we stayed at hospital guesthouse and enjoyed the hospitality of the staff.
Bamiyan is one of the most beautiful valleys I have seen in my life; even when the statues of Buddhas have gone. The colourful mountain massive displays thousands of niches and caves. Hsuan-Tsang, the Chinese pilgrim who visited Bamiyan in 632, reported about ten monasteries and over 1000 priests.
We climbed up the ancient staircase inside the small Buddha’s niche (38 meters high).Large Buddha was 55m high. There is a complicated system of caves and grottos around Buddhas. Nancy Hutch Dupree describes different kinds of paintings on the walls. Unfortunately Taliban destroyed not only statues, but most of the paintings as well. Only small richly coloured fragments of flowers can be found in some places.
We walked up the steep hill of Shahr-e Zohak (City of Zohak or Red City), the fortress of Shansabani Kings. The remains date from 1221. Genghis Khan’s favourite grandson fell mortally wounded by the defenders of the fortress. Genghis Khan got so angry that he destroyed everything in the Bamian Valley.
We also visited the famous Darya Ajdahar (Valley of the Dragon). It is an interestingly split hill. A legend says that there was a dragon in this valley, demanding each day one beautiful young lady, two camels and 600 pounds of other foodstuff. One morning the dragon found a young warrior, sword in hand. It was Hazrat Ali, the Prophet Mohammad son-in-law. He split the dragon in two, down the entire length of his huge body. We arrived at this hill at a very certain moment: there was sun and rain and rainbow and murky clouds all at the same time. It was an unbelievable view from the top of this hill to yellow, red and even green hills around us and to snowy peaks of mountain range Koha-e Baba.
Now we are back again for holidays. It is a relieving feeling to step out from the small plane. Twenty minutes ago we were in dusty and noisy Kabul; now there are only sounds of singing birds and yelling donkeys. Our midwife friends have left so we stay in a well-known guesthouse Roof of Bamian.
We walk a lot between fields, enjoying the greenery and friendly smiles of Hazaras. Mostly they grow potato (90%) and wheat; short summer is suitable only for these weather resistant crops. Climate of Bamiyan is severe. There are long cold winters and a lot of snow. Loafs of dung are drying everywhere on the roofs around villages. Those smelly loafs are used instead of wood for heating in harsh wintertime.
On the fields one can see bright dresses and headscarves of Hazara women. They never cover their heads with burkas while working. Last year I made a lot of photos secretly from inside car. This year I try to avoid photographing; Hazara ladies do not like that. Instead I practice my Dari language - to put to test greetings and small talk. And sometimes miracles happen: after a conversation and showing of pictures on the small screen of my camera the green light for photographing is given.