Back to Bamiyan II: Band-e Amir lakes, the greatest natures wonder in Afghanistan

When speaking to Afghans about sightseeing, they ask at first: “Have you been to Band-e Amir?” These well-known lakes in the middle of the Koha-e-Baba Mountains are one of the few tourist places in Afghanistan. Thousands of locals bundle up the whole family and make a long journey up to the lakes. It takes one and half days from Kabul to reach this place. Furthermore there are a lot of mines left in this area. Three years ago one minibus got blasted next to the main road. Thirteen men were killed on the spot.
Band-e Amir (Dam of Amir in Dari language) is actually a chain of lakes, connected by limestone dams. There are six lakes, namely Band-e Gholaman (Dam of slaves), Band-e Qamber (Dam of Caliph Ali’s slave), Band-e Haibat (Dam of grandiose), Band-e Panir (Dam of cheese), Band-e Pudina (Dam of wild mint) and Band-e Zulfiqar (Dam of sword of Ali). The lakes are now declared a wildlife conservation area. But honestly, it seems to me that only sign of special status of the area is the new public bathroom.
Early morning we are picked up by a brisk old man Safiullah with his four wheel drive car. He knows some words in English. Our Dari vocabulary is a little bit bigger – by all means we manage to communicate during those two days we are going to spend together.
During the first part of the journey we pass through valleys full of trees. An hour later there is no sign of trees or settlements. Just huge herds of sheep and cows are spread out on the green hills. Taliban took most of animals; only now, after five years, the new herds are forming again, Safiullah explains.
Three hours later we see a colourful mountain massive. For the first time we see the lakes. When I see the colour of the water I realize that photos cannot truly convey this deep rich blue tint. We stop on the cliff, which towers over Band-e Haibat. There are some cars, a chaikhana (teahouse), a small shrine and a tiny bazaar on the side of the lake. High rockcliffs surround the most of the lake. The lower part reminds me of a spill over the edge of a bath. The long crescent edge of the lake is bordered with countless waterfalls.
Some families paddle near the waterfalls; I can hear shrieks of the children and women. We were told that up to 200 cars visit Band-e Amir in a day. But during our stay there were maybe twenty, not more. It depends on a weekday as there are more guests on Thursdays and Fridays when local minibuses bring Afghans from Bamiyan.
After eating kebab we ask Safiullah to take us to another lake. We explain to our driver that we will walk back (4-5 kilometres). Safiullah leaves and we are without a guide – for the first time in Afghanistan. Of course we have walked on our own in cities and villages, but here – in the middle of nowhere – it is a really splendid feeling.
(Continuing)