Walking in dusk

Before going to Afghanistan, I had the same dream for many nights. I walked alone in darkness in the middle of narrow quiet streets, surrounded by high walls. Somehow I knew that it is Kabul. At that time I had no idea how the streets of Kabul look like in daytime, not to mention the night time. I remember clearly my feeling of despair after security training: it seems that there is no possibility to walk around. Fortunately, we overcame our fears shortly.
My husband and me, we walk quite often at sunset time: to visit friend, for shopping or to go to restaurant. It has been a little bit dangerous not because of criminal gangs, but because of undeveloped city environment: there are no streetlights and deep canalization ditches edge the streets. In addition there is breathtaking stench, those ditches are truly terrifying: one can easily to step into sewage water or even break a leg.
Huts of chaokidars’ (guards in Dari language) block the sidewalks, so one has to step on motorway. Usually there is some light coming from their cabins: guards are looking at their TVs. I really wonder when this idiotic practice will finish that an army of young Afghans spends their days “guarding”, i.e. lazing in their huts, drinking tea, watching TV or playing with their guns. We have seen how bored guys just hurl their guns in the air – like a circus artists do.
Summer nights in Kabul are somehow charming as heat of the day is gone. The wind weakens and breathing is easier. There is some illumination at the vegetable and fruit stalls and windows of bakeries. Hurrying clients buy last pieces of naan while the bakers are preparing for the night, brushing cheap carpets. They sleep where they work.