Fabulous Murad Khane

I spend another wonderful evening, photographing at Murad Khane quarter. First time I was here, I just concentrated on architectural details. This time I try to capture the special atmosphere of this place.
The guide from Turquoise Mountain Foundation refers us (there are some other rubbernecks as well) to different households. We clamber up cranky stairs to admire the view from windows without glasses. We spy local ladies at the kitchen hut and try freshly cooked bulani’s (the stuffed pies cooked in hot oil).
It seems that typically locals don’t live on ground floor. At first house we are invited in, there is a hall without walls were our hostess is trying to scrub the mountain of dishes. The only living room is empty, just covered with cheap matting. There is a TV-set in the corner and the poster of movie Titanic give hints that there is twenty first century outside.
A young lady from other house has heard about coming guests. She is wearing a make up. Lots of bracelets are around her hands. She really seems to like posing for photos – what an uncommon view!
We visit the house of a local elder, too. There is a tiny courtyard in the middle of his house. There are lots of authentic details like wooden shutters, paneling and doors. He has marvelous children. When I look around me, it is surprising to see their handsome colorful dresses, carefully washed hair and even earrings.
One guests asks for the explanation: how can local people survive cold winter time in those uninsulated houses. In response the local men demonstrate us their tradition. In middle of the room a low wooden table is placed and covered by a bed sheet. Under the table warm stone is inserted. Family is lieing around this table: they place their feet under the table and cover themselves by the bed sheet.
And now we are ready to listen to the stories of our grandmothers and grandfathers, says the elder with a smile.