Cotton: The New Luxury?

photo via: Bizmology

We saw the warnings last year when many companies began to slowly raise the prices of their cotton-made products and overall use less cotton and more synthetic blends. The price of cotton rose almost 80% within last year, caused by the flooding in Pakistan, bad weather in China and India, and the initial low inventory due to a weak demand during the recession. 


But last Friday marked a record high of a 150% increase since beginning of 2010, with cotton prices at  $1.90 a pound. And reasonably, as many manufacturers switched to cheaper alternatives, prices of polyester and other synthetic fibers also increased.


Come July and August when the new fall 2011 collections hit the sales floors, it is guaranteed that we will see price increases all across the board, no matter the price point. How much of an increase, however, is yet to be determined. Retailers from all levels face the challenge of finding ways to keep their price points competitive, yet understandable to consumers. After the last several years with all down low recession prices, how customers will react to the increases after being so used to the bargain-friendly merchandise is what's on every retailer's mind.

photo via: Fashion United

Denim companies face the biggest obstacle as cotton is their primary raw material. Levi's announced plans to increase prices, while Mustang, a Germany-based supplier of denim-inspired lifestyle fashion, is actively working on a goal-oriented set of measures to manage the additional costs. Besides moderate price increases, the company plans to lay off about 16 of their approximately 600 employees worldwide, affecting mostly the staff working in overhead functions. With rising production prices, retailers must reconsider all facets of their business structure to stay afloat. Other apparel companies that plan to increase prices include V.F. Corporation, J.C. Penney, Nike, and Hanesbrands. 

photo via: Treehugger

However, as prices in traditional fabrics increase, there is an opportunity for new eco-friendly materials to find it's place. For example, H&M reported a 10% drop in profits as margins were hurt by rising input costs. However, the Stockholm-based company insists that it will not lift prices at the expense of market share. Earlier this month, H&M debuted a range of environmentally friendly fashion for spring, expected to hit stores April 14, 2011. Named "The Conscious Collection" for men, women, and children, the line is made from sustainable materials like organic linen, recycled polyester, and Tencel. No longer just about organic cotton, the line emphasizes the endless possibilities of fashionable items with smarter green materials. H&M expects to continue this line several times throughout the year. And let's not also forget their recent Waste Collection, the limited line made from left over fabrics from the production of H&M's designer collaboration with Lanvin. 

photo via: Ecouterre

Recycled materials and vintage clothing will naturally gain momentum as both require little to none materials cost. The American swimwear brand, Speedo, recently collaborated with student designers from the London College of Fashion, University College Falmouth, and the University of Huddersfield to rework their surplus of LZR Racer swimsuits. The Speedo LZR Racer was launched in 2008, but due to the 2009 ban preventing swimmers to compete in full-body swimsuits, the company was left with a substantial amount of dead stock. Collaborating with eager and creative students, the final result was a couture twist to the normal swimwear attire. Click here to watch the behind-the-scenes video of the student collaboration. 


Just a few days ago, J.Crew's little sister, Madewell also announced their collaboration with fashion blog Refinery29 and presented a curated selection of vintage goods through their "Very Vintage Boutique" on their online shop. With less than 30 pieces, the collection of one-offs is extremely exclusive, affordable, and fashionably on trend. Targeting the twenty-something fashionistas, purchasing vintage finds is made easier than ever.

photo via: Ecouterre

And for those into the military-inspired trend, Christopher Raeburn and Victorinox, the brand behind the Swiss Army Knife, debuted their Fall/Winter 2011 collection last Thursday on the first official day of New York Fashion Week. The eight-piece "Remade in Switzeland" capsule collection is designed solely from decommissioned military uniforms and parachute fabrics. Featuring unisex parkas, coats, hoodies, scarves, and caps sewn by local tailors, only 100 pieces per look were made. 


But even beyond socially and environmentally conscious made products, we are also seeing more and more affordable sustainable fabrics made available to the masses. The assumption that eco or socially friendly products is too expensive is losing it's validity as websites like Offset Warehouse and Source4Style allow anyone to order anywhere from a yard to an entire roll of ethical fabrics at a fair price. With more transparency and affordability of ethical fabrics, design students are becoming better educated with what is out there, while smaller designers are enabled to afford greener options. Furthermore, current and future brands will have more meaningful visions as sourcing becomes increasingly important in the retailer's identity. 


There is a drastic shift in the way the retail industry is running today. The roles have reversed and power has come to the hands of the producers. The financial crisis led many producers into bankruptcy, resulting in a smaller, more expensive production capacity. The resulting increase in sourcing costs affects all companies in the apparel industry in a way that has never been before. And while some businesses may react by increasing prices or reevaluating their costs, others will see this as a timely occasion to carefully consider alternative, more sustainable possibilities. 

The NY Fashion Week Scoop

It's that time of year again: New York Fashion Week! The fashion madness all officially began last Thursday; and since then, the city has been bustling with models, editors, buyers, and stylish fashionistas making their appearances from one show to the next. Today, we highlight several buzz-worthy NY Fashion Week news, keeping you up to speed with the latest designers to watch, shows to see, and collections to buy!

1. M. Patmos 

photo via: Style.com

It was an unfortunate event when knitwear duo Lutz & Patmos bid farewell last year. But after the break up, Marcia Patmos decided to fly solo and presented a small yet strong collection for this fall. The best in creating innovative knits in soft and cozy yarns, we are all glad to see Patmos back in the fashion scene!

2. Carven's Guillaume Henry

photo via: NY Times

Being one of the first collections to sell out at Barney's, Carven has made a comeback ever since Mr. Henry took it's reign. Although Guillaume Henry is not yet a household name, he is quietly climbing the ropes to being the next hottest designer. Keeping to Mme. Carven Mallet's youthful spirit, he continues her vision of creating beautiful, modern clothes without the ridiculously expensive price tag. Look out for his latest collection during Paris Fashion Week. You don't want to miss it.

photo via: Telegraph

3. The most creative and mind-blowing presentation yet goes to none other than the skiwear giant, Moncler Grenoble. As tourists and busy NY locals were making their way through the crowded Grand Central Station last Sunday, the Beaux Arts Grand Concourse suddenly transformed into the fashion hot spot as Moncler Grenoble gave a "Flash Mob" performance. With more than 200 dancers and singers, the group gave a superb stylish performance inspired by legendary dance-maestro Bob Fosse. Click here to watch the video!

video via: YouTube

4. Remember one of our earlier posts when we discussed the blurring lines of advertising, business, and media? Well, the line might as well no longer exist. As we continue to see a shift of little to none discrepancy between commerce and editorial, we take you to the next level as we announce Net-A-Porter's new video portal, Net-A-Porter TV. Using the Google TV platform, Net-A-Porter TV includes four different channels: Runway, Who's Who, Trends 101, and Flashbacks. What makes this even better is customers can shop as they browse, comment, and share the content. Products appear on screen and buying is naturally part of the whole experience. Barney's followed with a similar site, The Window, which launched earlier this week, featuring slideshows and videos of fashion designers and their latest product arrivals. 

photo via: Ecouterre

5. And let's not forget! Although NY Fashion Week ends this weekend, there is another New York runway show later in March that is a definite must see. Featuring fashion's top designers, Christie's A Bid to Save the Earth auction event, "Runway to Green" include special pieces from their fall 2011 collections, and proceeds will go toward environmental causes. A few of the participating designers and design houses include Gucci, Prada, Balenciaga, Burberry, Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Jacobs, Diane von Furstenberg, Stella McCartney, Rachel Roy, Marchesa, Jason Wu, and Alexander Wang. The event will also launch an exclusive sale on Net-a-Porter.com, months before the collection hits stores. A portion of the proceeds will benefit charities such as the Alliance for Climate Protection, the United Nations Environment Programme's Billion Tree Campaign, and the NRDC. Mark your calendars -- Runway to Green will take place March 29th! 

We end this post with some of our favorite (and most creative) fashion show invitations!

Rachel Antonoff

Jen Kao

Michael Kors

all photos via: Refinery29

February MBF Picks Special Edition: Berlin Fashion Week Round Up

Berlin's Fashion Week was just a few weeks ago and we at MBF Trend Consulting, took a break from NYC and flew to Germany to catch in on all the action. As always, the 5 day venture felt too short as each day was packed with a never-ending to-do list. From attending various trade shows, handpicking new and innovative designers, visiting new concept shops, and trying out the latest restaurants, this was definitely a fun and inspirational trip.

For this month's MBF Picks, we share with you some of our favorites, highlighting what we think were the most interesting places, people, and events. So without further delay, here is our favorite picks!

1. Events
To mingle and catch up with friends, we checked out the Wood Wood shop in Mitte. Pointer, the London based footwear brand, recently collaborated with the popular Danish brand Wood Wood for their spring 2011 and developed new, exciting color ways for their classic "Cargo" shoe. The collection is exclusively presented by the Front Line Shop. Check it out!

2. Shops
Torstrasse is the most talked about street right now in Mitte, Berlin's coolest neighborhood. Here, you can find the best selection of chic galleries, shops, and restaurants. And might we add, a perfect place for style watching!

Each month, Dudes Factory invites different artists to collaborate and create collections for their shop. The designs from these collections are the raw materials for the lab, their online software for customers to remix and individualize dude products. Find out more here.

Happy Shop carries a mix of both emerging and established designers from all over the world. Presenting an adventurous collection, sourced everywhere from South American markets to Parisian luxury designer showrooms, this shop offers a truly unique experience!

Best of Germany  offers a selection of traditional German pieces and special editions like books, toys, cuckoo clocks, glass, cards, German beers and much more. Check out their latest selection here.

Inspired by glamorous movie icons of the 40s and 50s, Lena Hoschek's designs combine nostalgic patterns and high-end tailoring. A lover of punk music, bad guys, and fast cars, Hoschek's collection is always sensual and fierce. Click here to view her most recent collection. 

3. Restaurants

Pret A Diner is a trend-setting culinary experience for a private circle. It's so secretive we needed a special log-in to even get into the website! In a very Berlin tradition, the entrance to the restaurant is led by a candle light maze in an underground hallway. Once you find the door, there is a beautiful bar and another separate entrance to the restaurant. Brought together by an international team of young chefs, the food was fresh, seasonal, and regional. It was a great night with wonderful food and fabulous friends! 

4. Designers

Ann-Kathrin Carstensen and Nuria Ana Schmidt, designers behind the label Rita in Palma, work in collaboration with Turkish women in Berlin to create the most beautiful accessories using traditional crochet techniques. Focusing on the idea of a cultural exchange, the label is recognized for it's fine craftsmanship, avant-garde designs, and high-quality construction.   

The latest eco-friendly fashion designer hails from Delhi, India. Ela by Joyjit is a perfect balance of eco-friendly and edgy style. Using a wide range of textures and hand woven embroidery details, Joyjit explores the multi-faceted nature of sustainable fashion in his most recent collection. Using un-dyed organic fabrics, there is a natural quality in his effortlessly chic outfits. 

YOJ's philosophy is based on the responsibility that man must have toward his fellow men and the Earth. Respecting nature and mankind, YOJ only uses biological fibers and colors extracted from nature. Each item is completely handmade, from the initial drawings to the final tailoring details. Their latest collaboration is with artist Franco Gervasio as he interprets seven dresses for S/S 2010 and A/W 2010-11. Each piece will come in a limited edition of 20 originals. Click here for more information.

Launched in 2008, Gluejeans was announced Holland's best fashion product and rewarded the Dutch Design Award. Gluejeans are not stitched, but visibly glued at the seams. They also recently introduced the revolutionary Genecor PRIMAGREEN enzyme finish, exemplifying it's innovative and sustainable tradition. Click here to find out more.

To wrap up Fashion Week, we joined Jan and his amazing group of friends to a fabulous dinner at Bar Tausend for his newest product launch. The gift polish of the night was gifted from the first appearance of Uslu Airlines. With no airport, name, price, or place to buy, other than from the PIC (Pilot in Command, among non avaiators aka 'Captain') himself, it was a real treat! Watch out for future Uslu Airline events to get yours!

All right, that's all we have for today. We hope you enjoyed this post. If you live or plan to visit Berlin in the near future, we'd love to hear from you! 

East Meets West, "A Focus on China" (Part 2)

*This article is a continuation of a 2 part series. To read Part 1, please click here.

photo via: China Daily 

With better wages and the convenience of being able to live together with their families, (something the working class of the Western world never really had to think about), China is heading toward a rise of a populous middle class and a hungry appetite for consumer spending. For example, Zara and H&M, two of the world's largest fast fashion retailers, have seen a huge success this year. H&M is ending this year with a total of 13 new stores, leading to a total of 27, while Zara opened 33 new stores, leading to a total of 60. As the country is becoming more fashion-conscious, these fast fashion retailers are thriving.

 In contrast, there is also a new consumer base of young, creative individuals who are looking rather inward to find designs that reflect China's culture and artistry. Young, 20s-30s year olds in China are now looking toward homegrown fashion that reflect a distinctive modern perspective: one that melds Western fashion sense with Chinese culture. We end this 2-part series highlighting a few of their rising stars:

photo via: La Vie Fall/Winter 2011

One up and coming designer in Shanghai's burgeoning fashion scene is Jenny Ji, who has taken the East-meets-West concept and created a modern Chinese lifestyle brand with her ready-to-wear line "La Vie" as well as a wedding line, aptly called, "The Wedding." 29-year old Jenny Ji started her line La Vie eight years ago after studying fashion abroad in Milan and assisting a Japanese designer in Hong Kong. With stores on Tai Kang Lu in Shanghai's French concession and the Bund as well as an international presence in Paris and Stockholm, La Vie has created a buzz domestically and internationally. Asked about her sources of inspiration, she explained, "Every time we recreate our design concepts, our inspiration comes from a piece of Chinese culture. [Our] winter fashion collection [for 2010] was based on peacock feather, which are used in many Shanghai homes for decoration."

photo via: La Vie

In addition to utilizing a distinctively Chinese perspective to her designs, Ji is also known as an ethical fashion designer, using eco-friendly fabrics for her lines. "I insisted on eco-friendly materials...It's very comfortable and you can feel the difference," Ji explains, "We want La Vie to be an environmentally friendly brand, but from the business side, we also think this is the future." In La Vie's Fall/Winter 2011 collection titled "Calender Girl," Ji utilized common colors used by the Chinese: Black, Red and White and elements of the traditional "Cheongsam" in modern, Western silhouettes, melding East and West.

While the idea of sustainability is still trying to catch on in China, one store in Shanghai that has taken sustainability to the next level is Nest on Tai Kang Lu in the French Concession district in Shanghai. Dedicated to offering a range of eco-friendly products for the individual and home, Nest comprises of Chinese as well as foreign designs, aimed at supporting "the work of skilled artisans of China and in Asia." Begun by Trine Targett, a Danish native, who sought to contemporize the crafts of traditional Chinese artisans, Nest has become a design incubator and showcase for Chinese-made sustainable design, through its "Design Talk Evenings." The manifesto of Nest is that "the sum is greater than its parts." While sustainability still has a long way to go in China, the fact that there is a store for the purpose of selling exclusively sustainable products is significant, signaling a customer base in Shanghai that is interested in eco-friendly products.

Photo Via: Judy Hua

photo via: Art Zine China

Another designer that caters to an East-meet-West perspective is Judy Hua. The designer Hua Juan uses elements of Chinese art, while maintaining a modern, funky edge. She is especially known for her wedding dresses, wedding accoutrements, and custom ready-to-wear. For her Spring/Summer 2010 collection, Hua Juan was inspired by Chinese contemporary artist Zhou Chunya's Peach Blossom paintings, which depict peach blossoms and red-shaped men embracing pink-colored women. Evidence of this could be seen in the color combinations, accessories and makeup on the runway. The color combinations were distinct: white cocktail dresses with magenta shoulder pieces, magenta dresses with black blazers as well as colorful floral print dresses. Each model was outfitted with a magenta headband and had heavy, magenta eyeshadow streaked across their eyes. Instead of looking abroad for inspiration, Judy Hua looked at Chinese contemporary art, offering a unique aesthetic to the fashion community.

photo via: Chinese Coat

photo via: Eblis Hungi

In contrast, clothing brand Eblis Hungi, located on Changle Road in Shanghai's French Concession district, infuses Western men's street wear with a slight Asian sensibility, rather than the more typical East-meets-West perspective. For example, the prints used on Eblis Hungi's hoodies are patterned and sequenced similarly to traditional Chinese prints, while using a cheetah print and their logo: a mummified bean-shape. In addition, the graphics on their t-shirts show a mummified character wearing traditional Chinese garb. Overall, the color used in their graphics and clothing as well as the color combinations definitely allude to a colorful and ornate Chinese aesthetic. For example, the color combinations on their graphic tees are similar to the color combinations used in traditional Chinese buildings such as those in the Forbidden City. In contrast to La Vie and Judy Hua, Eblis Hungi reflects a translating of Western-style for the young, Chinese consumer, rather than a mixing of East and West.

As China is becoming increasingly more important in the fashion community, we can already see a number of young, creative designers who are eager to test the waters and make their mark both locally and globally. While there are many Western brands venturing into the Eastern world, there are just as many Chinese-born designers who are excited to have their designs recognized and worn by their community. Who knows, maybe some day, these designers will have their goods stocked and sold here in the States!

Remembering 2010 and Looking Forward to 2011...

Happy New Years! We can't believe it's already 2011- it feels like 2010 just flew right past us! (I guess it feels that way every year, doesn't it?) Before we kick off the year with the top five fashion/retail news to look forward to in 2011, we take a walk down memory lane and bring you the Top 5 Best and Tragic Fashion/Retail Industry Moments of 2010.

Whether it made you laugh, cry, or downright angry, we're sure that everything on this list was definitely something memorable. As we reflect on the memories of 2010, we are reminded of all of the accomplishments and milestones that were only just a year ago.

So without further delay...

Starting with the Best of 2010:

photo via: NOWNESS.com

1. Fashion's Digital Revolution

2010 was the year of digital fashion. This year brought in some of the best fashion films, new online social media platforms, and truly innovative online shopping experiences. We highlighted many of them this past year, and are excited to see what the following year holds. This is really just the beginning!

photo via: Warby Parker

2. Fashionably Socially-Responsible

"Buy one, give one" was a common motto for 2010. Many companies have adopted the well-received philosophy of TOMS, and began their own business ventures, selling everything from ties to eyeglasses, donating one of their products to charity for each one purchased. This was definitely one of our favorite trends of the year.

photo via: Fashionista (source: Harpers Bazaar UK)

3. Tom Ford Returns
2010's greatest designer comeback was Tom Ford. Known for sweeping off everyone's feet when he reinvented big-name labels like Gucci and YSL, Tom Ford made an even more grand and glamourous return with his own-label collection earlier last year. With a closed-doors show with a stellar cast including Beyonce, Daphne Guinness, Chanel Iman, and Julianne Moore, his debut was the most anticipated show of the season. And to make things even better, Carine Roitfeld, the former editor-in-chief of French Vogue and Tom Ford's muse and stylist since the early 90's, is rumored to once again collaborate with the designer. Welcome back Mr. Ford!

                         

photo via: Youtube

4. Burberry
2010 was absolutely the year for Burberry. Starting off the year with their specially staged 3D runway show event live in New York, Paris, Dubai, Tokyo, and Los Angeles, the brand made a dramatic global comeback. As the first to create a truly global fashion show, Burberry was a pioneer in developing the marriage of fashion and technology. To follow up, they also launched the first ever groundbreaking 3D online advertisement, paving the way for the fashion industry in developing remarkably innovative ad campaigns. Their achievements, of course, went above and beyond their technological developments as we can't stop obsessing over all of the shearling jackets and military coats inspired from their last fall collection. Excellent work Christopher Bailey!

photo via: Fashionista

5. Editorials
For most in the magazine industry, 2010 was a tough year as many faced financial bankruptcy and an end to their paper goods while the digital world gained much momentum. However, a few managed to rise above and beyond and create some of the best, most extraordinary work we have ever seen. A perfect example of how pressure can often lead to greatness, take a look at Fashionista's pick of the best magazine editorials of 2010!

And now for the tragedies...

photo via: NY Times

1. Alexander McQueen's Last Farewell
On February 11, 2010, the world mourned the sudden and tragic loss of fashion's modern-day genius, Alexander McQueen. Based in Britain, but influential all over the world, McQueen left a permanent mark in the fashion community, and will always be remembered.

photo via: GreenPacks

2. H&M and Walmart's Big Mistake
Although they are heavily marketing their new sustainable practices and collections, H&M and Walmart began the year with a huge mistake, where news was revealed that the two chain stores dumped dozens of garbage bags filled with unneeded merchandise. Preventing anyone from keeping them, the clothes were destroyed with holes and sliced pieces.

photo via: Business of Fashion (Source: Fashionsnap.com)

3. Abercrombie & Fitch Opens in Japan
In December 2009, American casual luxury brand, Abercrombie & Fitch, better known for it's topless male employees and heavily perfumed retail stores, opened their first flagship store in Tokyo. However, instead of trying to relate to the Japanese audience, A&F pursued an intensely American retail and marketing strategy, clashing with the Japanese culture in every possible way. Everything about the store was completely rejected by the country, making this case the perfect example of what not to do when expanding oversees.

photo via: Styleite

4. Manhattan's Bedbug Problem
What do Macy's, Abercrombie, Hollister, Bloomingdales, Nike, and Victoria's Secret all have in common? Well, this past year, Manhattan had a bit of a bed bug problem, and it affected all six of these retail companies. Disappointing their would-be eager shoppers and making all of Manhattan a little bit itchy about stepping in, this was not one of the greatest memories here in NYC.

photo via: Huffington Post

5. Lady Gaga's Meat Dress
Yes, yes, we know Lady Gaga is known to wear super outlandish outfits that never make sense, but the dress she wore at the last MTV Video Music Awards quite literally made us speechless. Covered head-to-toe in raw meat, this fleshy number is clearly an outfit to remember (and not in a good way)!


That's it for our top ten best and worst moments of 2010, but we can't wait all of the exciting things to look forward to this coming year. To conclude this post, we summarize a short list of some of the most promising in the fashion/retail industry:

photo via: NY Times

1. Yves Saint Laurent: New Vintage III
Stefano Pilati of YSL and Julie Gilhart, former fashion director of Barneys New York, new initiative "New Vintage" is revealed this year in limited, numbered editions. Made from recycled fabric and existing patterns, the collection is meant to start a dialogue with the market using known codes and a common language that are reassuring and familiar, states Pilati. Educating the public about acting consciously toward its environment while wearing one of YSL's most designs is absolutely fabulous.

photo via: NY Times

2. New Fashion Line Accompanying Car on Comeback Road 
2011's must-have fashion accessory is not a purse or pair of shades, but a car. The iconic Lotus Esprit makes a comeback, and it's here in full-force with an all-out luxury brand, which includes three separate men's and women's clothing lines, a style magazine, and a concept store in London. The Esprit is scheduled to return to showrooms in 2013, and is remembered for it's appearance in classic films like "The Spy Who Loved Me," "For Your Eyes Only," "Pretty Women," and "Basic Instinct."

photo via: The Wall Street Journal

3. Moda Operandi
We said fashion was barely touching the surfaces of digital technology and the Internet, so we're excited to announce the next big thing for E-fashion: Moda Operandi. This exclusive site promises it's hand-selected group of customers the ability to order directly from designers each season, within 48 hours of the runway show. Members will order with a 50% deposit, and the designs are expected to be delivered to your door in roughly four months. With the option to return clothes that don't fit or otherwise unsatisfactory, Moda Operandi is the latest attempt to end the six-month lag fashion designers typically face before their runway looks arrive in mainstream stores. Already, the site claims to collaborate with about 50 designers and will start offering four women's collections a year: spring, resort, fall, and pre-fall. This brings a whole new meaning to "fast fashion."

photo via: NY Times

4. Diane Von Furstenberg Goes to China
A globe-trotting fashion mogul, it only makes sense that Diane Von Furstenberg's New Year's resolution  is to get known in China. And to start, she is preparing for a coming retrospective in Beijing, "Journey of a Dress." Featuring some of her sketches, designs, and trademark prints, as well as original portraits created by her celebrity friends like Andy Warhol, Frencesco Clemente, and Francesco Scavullo, this art show is expected to be one of the most lavish events she will be hosting out in the far East.

photo via: Ecouterre

5. Eco-Fashion Predictions for 2011
Ecouterre asked 27 eco-fashion movers and shakers to offer their forecasts for the year ahead. Discover what these amazing people are doing and see what they have to say for the future of fashion!

And lastly, don't forget to make your New Year's Resolutions -- it's never too late! Fashion designers have their list of to-do's too! Click here and get inspired! Happy 2011!

Brooklyn's One to Watch: Titania Inglis

photo via: Titania Inglis

A designer for the modern woman, Brooklyn-based fashion designer Titania Inglis creates clothes that are experimental yet functional, perfect for strong, stylish women on-the-go. And now after three seasons, Ms. Inglis has established her signature style of effortless, essential, and cutting edge designs.

But what makes her collection a particular stand-out is her underlying element of sustainability. Using minimal waste and sourcing only organic fabrics and vegetable-tanned leathers, all of her pieces are conscientiously sourced and sewn in limited quantities in New York's garment district.

So last week, we caught Ms. Inglis for an interview to get an inside scoop on what life has been like for this rising talent.  

1. Please share a little bit about your background:

I grew up in Ithaca, New York, and started out as a journalist after college before going into design. I studied at Design Academy Eindhoven and FIT, and learned the ropes of running an independent fashion line by interning for Jean Yu, Three As Four, and Stærk before launching my own line.

2. Were you always eco-conscious?

In a word, yes. In elementary school, I won a prize for dreaming up a wide-mouthed monster that would live in the ground and solve the landfill problem by eating garbage and digesting it into dirt. These days, I’m trying to counteract disposable culture by making clothes conceived for a smaller wardrobe: versatile pieces to wear day or night, with silhouettes that are of the moment, but with classic proportions and quality designed to stand the test of time.

3. Which designers are you most influenced by and why? 

Ann Demeulemeester, for her androgynous classics with a rock ‘n’ roll edge. Stella McCartney, who’s helping to lead the industry in a more environmentally conscious direction, and who designs lovely yet practical clothes that women really want to wear. Maria Cornejo, for her pared-down aesthetic and interesting shapes. Phoebe Philo, whose latest clothes for Céline are simply, unquestionably perfect. The product designers Naoto Fukusawa and Dieter Rams, who distill form down to its most basic elements. 

4. How do find inspirations for your collections? 

One thing I learned as a reporter was that inspiration is everywhere; the hard part is recognizing it when you see it. I draw mine from all kinds of sources: old movies, new architecture, vintage electronics, all the stylish girls pedaling around Brooklyn... and especially from my fabrics. With a sustainable collection, there’s a very limited range of organic fabrics available, so each season I’ll pick about 3 of the best I’ve found, and design my collection around those. For SS11, it was an organic cotton denim from Japan and an organic cotton-silk blend twill from Italy, both of which lent themselves to a sculptural, origami effect. I also try to incorporate at least one new natural fabric treatment technique into each collection; for the first, I experimented with rust dyeing, for the second, it was beeswaxing, and for the third, natural dyeing.

photo via: Titania Inglis

5. Please describe your typical work day. 

As a small designer, I support myself by freelancing at an apparel company in Midtown, so I have to squeeze in moments throughout the week to work on my own projects. First thing in the morning, I’ll get up and dash off some emails over breakfast before biking into the city for work. After I leave the office, I’ll run errands: some days I’ll stop by the factory in the Garment District that produces my clothes, other days I’ll pick up the latest print job from the little print shop that produces my lookbooks and hangtags. And before bed, I’ll be back on the computer, updating my website, working on lookbooks or press releases, updating my Facebook page. 

One thing I’ve learned about being a one-woman company is that the work never ends. Except for the sewing and printing that I outsource, it’s all me: sales, marketing, accounting, shipping, sourcing, production, even bike courier... And all the while, I’m constantly keeping my eyes open for inspiration for the next collection.

6. After three seasons, what has been the greatest challenge as an independent NY eco-

   conscious designer? What are the advantages?

The advantage is being in New York, with such a thriving cultural scene around me. I’m friends with quite a few other young designers, and we help each other out with advice and sometimes even late-night sewing marathons! The garment district is also a wonderful resource; it’s incredibly convenient to be able to buy fabric and zippers and get my patterns graded and clothes sewn all within a few-block radius. As a sustainable designer, I’m thrilled to have access to so many slow-fashion-minded organizations; for example, Earth Pledge has compiled a library of sustainable fabrics, while the new Textile Arts Center in Brooklyn is helping to revive hand-weaving, natural dyeing, and other traditional techniques.

The downside is that there’s a lot of competition here, so without a big PR budget, it can be tough to get your work out there. It’s really a matter of building the business step by step, season by season, relationship by relationship, and proving to buyers and editors one by one that I’m serious, I have staying power, and most importantly, that the clothes are worth their while.

7. Who would you love to see wearing your clothes?

Just to name one, Tilda Swinton. She’s already a muse to so many designers, but there’s a reason for that: she’s an independent spirit with a stellar fashion sense, and she’s so poised and intelligent, and beautiful in a tomboyish sort of way.

8. What is your favorite piece in your most recent SS11 collection and why?

The Reverse Dress, because it really epitomizes the values of my collection. I based it on the idea of an artist’s smock; I own a vintage one that only gets better the more it’s splattered in paint and dye. The dress is super versatile, since it can be worn front or back, day or night, layered or alone; it’s practical and easy to wear, with a simple closure and two pockets; the fabric (the Italian silk-organic cotton blend twill I mentioned before) is both gorgeous and eco-friendly; and it has a look that’s beautiful and tough at the same time.

photo via: Titania Inglis

9. Favorite places to shop:

Project No. 8 has a fantastically curated selection of avant-garde clothing. Tokio 7 is a great source of used clothing from major labels and local designers alike. The Chelsea Garage Market and Hell’s Kitchen flea market for vintage finds, including the cool botanical prints I spotted last week for my apartment. The Future Perfect in Williamsburg, which has a fascinatingly quirky selection of current furniture design.

10. Favorite places to dine:

As a slow fashion adherent, I love slow food, too. When it’s time for a real treat, my boyfriend and I head to the General Greene in Fort Greene, Westville East in the East Village, or Diner in Williamsburg, which all have incredibly delicious menus based around local, seasonal ingredients.